Here's the deal with this car.
Let me say this first:
I AM SELLING THIS CAR FOR PARTS, SCRAP, OR PROBABLY BOTH.
PLEASE READ THE FULL DESCRIPTION BEFORE BIDDING!!
I am having trouble transferring pics from my iPod to the computer to add them to the listing.
I should have pics up by tomorrow or even tonight. But just in case, a brief note on the body condition. The car is blue. There is rust along the wheel wells and under the doors. Not the worst Michigan '94 Corolla, not the best in terms of rust. It is not major, but is easily noticeable without searching. Some nicks and scratches, no major dents. I think that says about everything you'd see in the pics anyway!
Note, the title is clear, but the car is absolutely in no way sold as a daily driver. If you want the body, tranny or engine, bid on it. I suppose that if you want the car complete, to put back together and fix the problems I am about to list, you can message me with an offer and if I like it, I could add a buy it now. I do not think it is worth fixing all of the things that are wrong with it, but if you disagree and want to turn it back into a daily driver, great!
I am also going to list this car for sale locally in the Jackson, Michigan Craigs list. I reserve the right to end the auction early if someone buys it there. Price will be a little lower because cl has no fees. I recommend you check out that listing if only because more pictures will be included there.
The car is being sold for the BODY, the ENGINE, and the TRANSMISSION, primarily. Parts that are not essential to it's ability to turn on, go, and stop are being removed by me as much as my (limited) skill allows me. So any part that requires some level of mechanical skill to remove will also still be there... at the end I will give a detailed list. If it does not say it is there, then message me or assume it is not and is not included as part of this auction. Thank you!
The car runs and drives. There are a few issues with the driving part of it, though:
1) The car shakes. At high speed, at low speed, at medium speed. It's actually most pronounced at lower speeds. The steering wheel shakes visibly and this can be felt in the ride of the car. I don't know what causes this, but it is a lot more than a slight shimmy on the expressway and I would not feel safe driving a car like that without having it fixed.
2) The exhaust pipe is broken before it reached the muffler, and as a result the car is LOUD.
3) It pulls to the right; I've driven worse.
4) The brake pedal goes a lot farther towards the ground that I think it should before any real stopping power kicks in. At that point it has the power to bring you to a stop as quickly as you would normally want to come to stop. If you had to slam on the brakes, I imagine it would not stop as quickly as it was designed to.
I bought this car yesterday.. I posted a wanted ad for awd Toyotas from the eighties, and someone said she had a '94 Corolla that she wanted $550 for.. "runs good, just needs muffler work." I got there and found out that all of the things I just listed were also wrong with it. Since it wasn't what I really wanted anyway, I told her I could only make an offer on it as a parts car. So I did, and I was even thinking of pulling out the engine and trying to get ahold of a Corolla All-Trac with a blown motor.. but all of that crazy thinking thankfully came to an end when I saw my wife's expression when I brought home a car that we couldn't drive.
As far as I know the engine is ok. I did drive it an hour and a half home from Lansing and it seemed to perform all right (I did not take it over 65). It did not seem overly peppy, but I wondered how much that had to do with the impression given by the loud exhaust, and I have heard that a broken pipe can affect performance, but I don't really know.
If there were any problems with how it was running, it would be hard to tell over the shake in the steering and the noise of the exhaust. It felt like it was running alright, but I say that only to give you my impression after a short drive and I can not make any guarantees.
You could technically drive this home if you choose to. You will be responsible for determining whether it is safe to do so and I relinquish all responsibility the moment it leaves my driveway. I will give you the title, the car and the keys. You are responsible for doing what is legal and safe on your end. My strong recommendation is to bring a trailer, start it up and drive it onto the trailer unless you are going a very short distance. I am taking the headllights, taillights, turn signals and battery out of the car before it goes. If you do wish to drive it, you will need to either bring these things with you or buy them from me. The headlights sell for over $50 on eBay, so do the tail lights, and the turn signals in all are probably worth another fifty. So is the battery... so for this $200 worth of stuff, I will charge you $100 if you have purchased the car. Again, you will owe me $100 in addition to the purchase price if you want the lights and the battery to be included with the car!
The car is pictured with driver's side windows. It will have NO WINDOWS when you get it. The only glass will be the windshield, which has a crack in it, and the rear windshield, which is good and has the defrost lines.
It is pictured with lights. It will have NO LIGHTS when you get it unless you buy them separately.
The grille will also be gone.
the trunk latch is gone, and I intend that the hood latch will be too.
I am hoping to be able to remove the air cleaner box, radiator fan and AC compressor, but may not be able to. You can contact me near the end of the auction to find out, if they are important to you. Otherwise, bid as if they are not there.
Other removed items: speedometer, sun visors, radio face plate, glove compartment, dome light, window motors, interior door handles, dash is broken from when I did not succeed in removing it, "oh s*** handles," and most of the trim on the inside and outside of the car. Again, if there is a specific part you want, ask if it is still there or assume it is NOT when you bid.
You are welcome to buy any part I have with cash for less than I would sell it for online when you pick up the car.
You will be responsible for arranging to transport the vehicle once you buy it.
Rear tires decent, front pretty worn.
I am getting tired of writing about it. If I missed something, just ask.
$410 is the starting bid and there is no reserve. The engine is worth the asking price, the body is worth $$$ as scrap, the tranny seems fine, etc etc. Buy it for one or all reasons.. whatever your reason, bid $410 or more and take it away.
Thanks!
Toyota Corolla for Sale
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Auto blog
Tue, 18 Feb 2014
Enthusiasts have been begging for a new Supra practically since Toyota stopped selling its fourth generation in the US way back in 1998. We've been hearing rumors about a successor for years, but the Toyota FT-1 Concept from the 2014 Detroit Auto Show is the first tangible sign from the automaker that a new generation may be on the table. To temp us even more, the Japanese company reportedly filed with the US Patent and Trademark Office last week to renew its 2010 trademark for the name "Supra."
Granted, these kinds of trademark updates aren't uncommon, as automakers don't want to lose their rights to nameplates (even if they have no immediate plans to use them). However, Toyota briefly abandoned its rights to the Supra name entirely. According to The Motor Report, the original trademark was continually renewed until 2006, but the Japanese automaker let it lapse in the US until applying for it again in 2010.
The FT-1 Concept in Detroit was created at Toyota's Calty Design Research center in California and carries cues from the 2000GT, Celica and Supra in an ultra-curvy body. Officials did not disclose anything about its powertrain. Toyota is also co-developing a future sports car platform with BMW that will underpin models from both companies, but few other details are konwn, and it isn't yet clear that the joint venture has anything to do with a future Supra. Hope springs eternal.
Mon, 15 Apr 2013
We're set to record Autoblog Podcast #329 tonight, and you can drop us your questions and comments via our Q&A module below. Subscribe to the Autoblog Podcast in iTunes if you haven't already done so, and if you want to take it all in live, tune in to our UStream (audio only) channel at 10:00 PM Eastern tonight.
Discussion Topics for Autoblog Podcast Episode #329
Subcompact sales slump, yet again
Mon, 14 Oct 2013
Turbocharging isn't really Toyota's specialty, and the Japanese automaker isn't being shy about acknowledging it. Koei Saga, a senior managing officer in charge of drivetrain research and development, says that eschewing turbos and increasing displacement of engines using the Atkinson cycle can produce better power gains without sacrificing fuel economy, Automotive News reports.
Toyota is investing heavily in larger-displacement Atkinson-cycle engines in addition to turbocharged engines, but Saga doesn't think the automaker will use turbocharging across many product lines. He apparently remains unconvinced that the technology "makes the world better."
In Toyota's eyes then, Atkinson cycle engines do make the world better, and here's how. Their pistons complete four processes - intake, compression, power and exhaust - in one revolution of the crankshaft, and the power stroke is longer than the compression stroke. Traditional Otto cycle engines require two crankshaft revolutions to accomplish those same four operations and have equal-length compression and power strokes. Atkinson cycle engines are more efficient, but less power dense, though increasing displacement can offset that shortfall.
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